Tuesday, May 31, 2016
Santorini, Greece
Good afternoon and greetings from Santorini. It's a been a few days so I want to catch you up with what we've been doing. After my last entry on Sunday afternoon, we walked to a neighborhood that Kirk had read about that was off the beaten path called the Gazi, not to be confused with Gaza which is something completely different. We got drinks at a cafe called Soho and seemed to be the only tourists there so it was nice to see how the modern Athenians spend their evenings. We had dinner at a restaurant across the street and also appeared to be the only tourists there, even though they had English menus. As we ate, we watched a man next to us play with worry beads. Greek men like to hold these in there hands and toss them around to pass the time. They are kind of like the beads on a rosary but they carry no religious significance. We have seen them just about everywhere and they seem to be used by young and old men alike. Kirk and I have decided we want some, but we haven't bought them yet. I personally don't want to spend too much on them, but I don't want to get them at a mere souvenir stand either. I could certainly use them though as I am a bit of a worrier myself.
Yesterday was our second day in Athens and we spent the day seeing more ruins and visiting the Acropoliis Museum. We started the day at the Ancient Agora, just downhill from the Acropolis. This was the marketplace of ancient Athens and today is basically a large field filled with ruins, most of which are foundations and some columns from old buildings. This is where Socrates and other Greek philosophers taught. One of the old buildings, the Stoa of Attalos, has been completely restored thanks to John D. Rockefeller, Jr., and is now the museum of the Agora. The museum is full of vases and other antiquities from Ancient Greece. We saw an ancient machine that the Athenians used to pick juries for criminal trials which I found particularly interesting. Most impressive, perhaps, was an exhibit on the practice of Ostracism used by the ancient Athenians to protect democracy from despotic tendencies. With a quorum of at least 6000, those assembled would use pottery shards to write down the name of someone they found most unpleasant. The "winner" would be banished from the city for ten years. When Tom, Kirk, and I read this, we all thought of writing the same person's name who will go unmentioned as this is a nonpartisan blog.
We ate lunch at a sidewalk cafe near the Agora. These cafes are everywhere in Athens as in much of Europe. After lunch, we made our way to the new Acroppolis Museum. Built on top of ruins from the ancient city of Athens, much of the floor of the museum is clear and so one can view the excavations below which admiring the artifiact above. On the top floor of the museum, they have assembled all the artifacts that they have collected from the Parthenon's doorways and the freeze. These are arranged around the top floor in the same manner that they would have been on the building. In some places they have have filled in missing pieces based on previous drawings. But they never seem to assume what anything might of looked like, so there are plenty of gaps. This exhibit is surrounded on all sides by glass overlooking the Acropolis and the Parthenon. Well done, Greece! The museum closed at 4pm so we spent the rest of the afternoon meandering through the narrow alley ways and shops of the Plaka district. Later, I went back to the room and changed into long pants so that I could visit the Orthodox Cathedral. Like the Vatican, you can't go in in shorts. I wanted to see this church mainly because it is where King Juan Carlos of Spain married Sofia of Greece sometime in the 1950s. The church was more elaborate than the Catholic cathedrals I have seen but much smaller. There were a lot of mosaics and frescos of Christ and the apostles. I wish I knew more about the Orthodox tradition.
We ate dinner at a restaurant we had spotted in the Plaka, but then got back early enough to pack and go to bed. This morning we got up a little before 5am in order to get ready and catch a 5:30am taxi to the port of Piraeus for our ferry to Santorini. We stopped at Mikonos and Naxos on the way and repeatedly went outside to take pictures. We arrived at the main port in Santorini about 12:30. Fortunately, we had arranged our "transfer" to our hotel, as the Europeans call it, and so did not have to find a driver. It seemed to take an hour to only go a few miles as the roads are narrow and there are a lot of cars and a lot of tourists. The main town, Fira, was a bottleneck and swarmed with tourists. But just a mile or so north is the village of Imperiovigli which is more isolated and quiet. There was wine and cheese awaiting our arrival and we spent the day lounging on our balcony and at the pool which overlook the caldera of Santorini. The island is the rim of an ancient volcano which erupted thousands of years ago. When it erupted the center caved in and filled with water creating the harbor that is before us. The island has almost no trees and is covered by several villages of typical Greek white washed houses. I will write more about Santorini tomorrow. Amazingly, there is almost no one at our hotel and so it is quiet and peaceful. Nice to be away from the tourists. We're looking forward to dinner and the sunset and possibly hiking a little bit tomorrow. Until then...
Sunday, May 29, 2016
Athens, Greece
Saturday, September 28, 2013
New York City; September 19-22, 2013
Later, Drew and I walked on the Highline from 34th street on the west side to the Meat Packing District where we had dinner. The Highline is an old elevated freight railroad line that has been converted into a walking trail. It is fairly new and has become a bit of a novelty so, of course, it was full of tourists. It is landscaped with lawns, benches, flowers, and trees and it was perfect weather for a little walk before dinner. Drew treated me to an early birthday dinner at Pastis, a French restaurant in the Meatpacking district. The area that was once famous for transexual prostitutes is now another gentrified New York neighborhood. The weather was nice enough that we could eat outside, which was just as well, because inside was a bit crowded with a large table for the diplomatic delegation from Ecuador. Later I learned that the UN General Assembly was about to start meeting. In fact, several Ecuadoran secret service agents patrolled inside and outside of the restaurant the whole time we were there. For dinner, I had the veal scallops. I know, I know, it's veal, but wow, was it good. So tender. And with it was a vegetable that I had never had before. I thought it was Spinach but the waiter told me it was broccoli rabe. I don't like regular broccoli, but I'm now hooked on the rabe variety. During our entire dinner, there was a constant parade of young women, dressed in miniskirts and sky high heels making their way to a nearby popular bar over cobble stones! Their outfits were scandalous and I hope my goddaughter Baikal (age 7) never dresses like that. I know here Dad would never stand for it.
Sunday, January 2, 2011
Christmas 2010: Family, Everglades, and Wild Animals
I drove down to Orlando on Monday Dec. 20th and was prepared for warm weather. I spent that night at my parents in Orlando where we decorated the family Christmas tree. It had been about three years since we had put up the big tree, so it was nice to get the decorations out of the box and enjoy the time together. I especially enjoyed being able to lie on the living couch and stare at the colorful tree when we finished.
Tuesday afternoon, I drove down to Fort Lauderdale where I stayed a few days with my friend Robert Merrill. That night while at dinner at a local Italian Restaurant we talked about what I wanted to do and the Everglades came up in conversation. While I had been to Sawgrass Recreation Park outside of Fort Lauderdale the year before, I had never been to the National Park or the tip of Florida. Robert said it was only about an hour away and that he was up for it if I was. I was delighted he said that because I had always wanted to go but thought it was too far.
We left Wednesday morning about 9:00 and it took a little over an hour to get there. The east entrance to the park is just west of Florida City which is at the end of the Turnpike extension. There's not much to say about Florida City except that it is a small farming town that appears to be out in the middle of nowhere but is actually on the edge of suburban Miami. We bought sandwiches there and headed to the park.
Our first stop was the Royal Palm visitors center where we took the Anhinga Trail over boardwalks out into the Taylor Slough and adjacent swamp. The trail is named for a local bird but we saw Egrets, Pelicans, Great Blue Heron, and Buzzards as well. And while there were numerous turtles and fish, the main attractions in this area were the Alligators. I don't think I have ever seen so many. At one overlook point we counted 20 laying around on little islands in the swamp. In one location, one was just laying on the grass at the side of the trail with no barrier between us. I got a good close up shot and then later saw a sign saying to stay 15 feet away from alligators. Oh well, he seemed harmless.
We then continued along the main road of the park and stopped at the Pa-hay-okee overlook where we got a good view of the Shark Slough. Slough is pronounced like Slew and is a large body of water which moves slowly, draining an area. In this case, it is an 8 mile wide river of grass slowly emptying into Florida Bay. There were signs in that area showing how the Everglades had changed over the years. The glades used to begin at Lake Okeechobee much further north and moved slowly through the entire area south of the lake; however, today, because of development, the slough is a much smaller body of water at the very lower part of the peninsula. Efforts are underway to "restore" the Everglades by expanding the area in the slough through artificial means. The view of the Shark Slough reminded me of pictures I have seen of the African Savannah. Because it was the dry season, I couldn't see the water below all the grass, unless I looked straight down. As far as I could see there was grass and a smattering of bald cypress saplings. I could not see a single sign of civilization. No roads, no power lines, and no cell phone towers. The only noise was the wind and an occasional bird. We stood there for quite some time just absorbing the peacefulness of the whole scene.
We then continued on down the road all the way to the end at the small village and marina of Flamingo at the tip of the peninsula with a great view of Florida Bay. The bay is a shallow water bay formed by the mainland on the north and the Florida Keys on the South. We could just make out Key Largo from the waterfront. We were told this was the only area in Florida where we might see an American Crocodile, as they live mainly in salt water. As we wandered around the docks of the marina, we saw a tour boat go by announcing there was a crocodile on the opposite bank but hard as we tried we couldn't see it. After walking around for several minutes scoping out all possible viewing angles, we gave up. Oh well. In case you are wondering, alligators are black and have wide fat mouths and live in primarily fresh water environments whereas crocodiles are grey with narrow skinny mouths and prefer salt water. Unfortunately, I am not telling you this based on my observations but on what I have read.
We had seen most of what we wanted to but did stop at one point on the way back to take a bit of a trail into the Mangrove Swamp. We saw another alligator here and probably would have stayed longer but the mosquitoes were getting pretty fierce. In fact, this was the only area where we encountered them as they are not very active in the winter. We were told that in the summer it can be unbearable.
For pictures of my Everglades trip, CLICK HERE. This is an album I have made on Facebook but you don't have to be a member to see it.
For more information on the Everglades, you can visit the National Park website at www.nps.gov/ever
The next day we mainly just hung out and went to the beach. On Christmas Eve, I drove back to Orlando and stopped at Lion Country Safari near West Palm Beach. This is an old Florida attraction that I had heard of since childhood but had never experienced. The park is a wild animal preserve that one drives through on a four mile road. There are large open areas based on regions of Africa where animals simply roam free, including in front of and alongside the cars. The cost was $26 and I could take as long as I wanted. I pulled over numerous times and took over 100 pictures. The only problem I had was that you are not suppose to lower your windows and in some places it was hard to get a good picture through the glass. I have to admit that I lowered the window a few times just to get a good shot, but only when the animals were not near.
For pictures from Lion Country Safari, CLICK HERE. Once again this is a Facebook album that you can view without being a member.
For more information, visit their website at http://www.lioncountrysafari.com/
Finally, I had a nice Christmas with my family in Orlando, despite the below average temperatures and not having a heavy coat. We weren't sick this year like we all were last Christmas and we had a pleasant visit. Plus Santa Claus was good to me this year. I got a new TV from my parents and a Kindle from my brother. We also saw three movies while I was home: The King's Speech, Black Swan, and Secretariat. They were all good but I don't recommend seeing Black Swan with one's mother. Additionally, I got to spend some time with my friends Curt Barnes and Joe Sandillo who I know from UF.
For a few more Christmas pictures, CLICK HERE.
Thanks for reading and Happy New Year everyone!
Sunday, May 9, 2010
Washington, DC
Drew came back from his class that evening and the three of us, along with Joe’s friend Andrew, went to a restaurant called Marvin in the U Street neighborhood. U Street was historically the cultural center of African American Washington, sort of the Harlem of DC, but today it has become a neighborhood of various groups and seems to be going through a renaissance. Many of the establishments are named for Jazz greats like Duke Ellington and others. Marvin is a restaurant named for Marvin Gay and the food is a mixture of Southern and Belgian food as Marvin Gay once spent several years in Belgium. They had a large menu of Belgian beers and mussels. For dinner, I had fried chicken on top of a waffle. It seemed at first like a strange combination, but I enjoyed the flavor of chicken, waffle, and maple syrup and would have it again. After dinner, we walked down the street to a bar called Nellie’s and hung out on the roof deck for a little while. Drew and I felt like two old men when we pooped out at 11:00 and went back to our hotel. Going out on the town is just not what it used to be when we were young.
Saturday, Drew and I still had half a day before our flight home but had no plans as to what we wanted to do before then. After breakfast we decided to go to the National Cathedral which is a straight shot up Massachusetts Ave. from our hotel in Dupont Circle. As we waited for a taxi in front of our hotel we noticed a long line forming at the Portuguese embassy across the street (Mass. Ave. is often called Embassy Row). We wondered what it was about as they didn’t look like asylum seekers or anything, but didn’t pay to much attention to it. Once in the taxi heading to the cathedral we learned that it was European Union Embassies’ open house day. We passed several more on our way up the street and were especially impressed with the goings-on at the British embassy. We made a quick loop through the cathedral and then walked back down the street to the British embassy. Out in front a children’s choir was singing Let It Be and the gates where decorated with union jack bunting. Once inside, we were able to walk through the gardens of the ambassador’s residence, take pictures, listen to bag pipes, try some scotch, and browse the booths. We probably stayed for about 45 minutes. The anglophile in me was in heaven and I kept wondering what Hyacinth Bucket (from the BritCom Keeping Up Appearances) would think about my getting to go to a garden party at the ambassador’s. We didn’t have time to go to any of the other embassies and by then the lines were getting long anyway. We met my friend Donald Hitchcock for lunch who filled us in on all the political goings-on behind the scenes in DC--he and his partner Paul are very well connected politically--and then drove us to the airport for our flight home.
It was nice to travel with my friend Drew again as it had been sometime since we had gone on a trip together and I found it interesting that my trip that began with a visit to Fort McHenry ended with a visit to the British Embassy. Thanks Drew for a great trip.
Here is a link to some pictures I posted on Facebook (you do not need to be a member of Facebook to view them):
Just click here to view pictures.
Thursday, May 6, 2010
Baltimore
We arrived Wednesday by various transportation modes: we flew into Washington, DC, took the Metro to Union Station, a commuter train to Baltimore, and a taxi to our hotel. We are staying in downtown Baltimore across the street from Camden Yards baseball stadium. Once we finally got settled in, we walked down to Baltimore's Inner Harbor. Baltimore has a natural harbor formed by the Patapsco river which snakes it way into the inner city. The final end of it is almost surrounded on four sides by land. We had drinks at a bar with a great view of the National Aquarium and the USS Constellation, a ship from the War of 1812. We later met up with some friends of Drew's and their newborn for dinner and then walked back to their row house in the Federal Hill neighborhood. Baltimore seems covered with row houses. I had no idea it was such a "real" city like Boston or Washington, DC--very dense with houses right on the street, walkable neighborhoods, and lots of parallel parking. The Federal Hill neighborhood was particularly charming. On a large hill overlooking the harbor, was a large American flag on the spot where there was once a huge union garrison stationed during the civil war to "keep an eye on the rebellious elements in Baltimore." At least that's what the historic marker said.
Today, I took a water taxi to Fort McHenry at the opposite end of the harbor. The fort was heavily bombarded by the British during the War of 1812. During the bombardment the flag flying over the fort was not damaged and Francis Scott Key wrote a poem about it, called "The Star-Spangled Banner, " which was eventually set to music and became our national anthem. The flag that inspired our anthem is now in Washington, DC at the Smithsonian but there is a replica of it flying over the fort. It has fifteen stars and fifteen stripes for the 15 states that were part of the union at the time. Before heading to the fort I stopped at the visitor center for a short film. When the film was over, the curtain to the right of us parted revealing a large picture window with a perfect view of the fort and the flag. We were asked to stand and the national anthem was played over the speakers. I thought it was a little hokie and wondered what would happen if I started to sing, "There'll Always be an England?" But I didn't and actually, the rest of the day I couldn't get the national anthem out of my head. There were several elementary school groups there on field trips but somehow I managed to avoid them by seeing various parts of the fort at just the right time. After seeing all I wanted, I took the water taxi to the historic Fell's Point neighborhood where I had lunch at a pub. I took a long walk after lunch, partly by accident, back to the harbor. After walking around the Mount Vernon neighborhood a bit, I returned to the hotel for a nice nap.
When Drew got out of his class we took a free shuttle bus to an Irish pub by the harbor for a beer before going on to Obrycki's restaurant back in Fell's Point for a traditional Baltimore Blue Crab dinner. We got three jumbo Blue Crabs as well as two crab cakes. I had never had a traditional crab meal before and while it was delicious, I think it was the messiest meal I have ever had. We went through a whole big stack of paper napkins and had crab and goo all over our hands. I have since washed my hands three time and they still smell like crab. But it was a lot of fun and we got some good pictures and had some good laughs. Tomorrow Drew goes back to class (something with cadavers and tracheotomies) and I am heading back to Washington, DC to spend the day with my friend Joe. Stay tuned for more.
Friday, January 1, 2010
Christmas 2009
I went to Orlando for Christmas this year as I always do, but this year I drove and stayed longer. While I was there I also visited Fort Lauderdale to see some friends. Besides just hanging out a lot, I did a couple of things that I would like to blog about.
On my way back from Fort Lauderdale to Orlando, I decided to forgo the turnpike and take back roads through the Everglades and past Lake Okeechobee. I stopped about 20 miles west of Fort Lauderdale at the Sawgrass Recreation Park on US Hwy 27. The park is situated in the northeast corner of the vast Everglades and has both a boat launch and a small zoo. I took an air boat ride first. I have always wanted to go on one but until then had never even been to the Everglades despite having grown up in Florida. The boat took us out for about a half an hour over the sawgrass swamp where we saw a couple of alligators and some birds. The Everglades used to be a giant 60 foot wide slow moving waterway that went from Lake Okeechobee down to Florida Bay at the end of the state. But because of all the levies, canals, and roads that have been built over them, most of the glades are now a non-moving marsh. Such was the condition of the swamp we were seeing. We also stopped at an island where some Malaluca trees had been planted and an Osprey was resting on one. These foreign trees were at one time planted all over the everglades in the hope that they would drink up the water and help convert the land to farmland. The trees reproduced like crazy and now the state is trying all kinds of methods to try and kill them. After the boat ride, I walked around the small zoo and saw more alligators and a Florida Panther, the state animal. I also read a display about efforts to "restore" the Everglades, which basically involve more dams, canals, and pumping stations to try to recreate the natural flow. I'll believe it when I see it. You can read more about Sawgrass Recreation Park at their website: http://www.evergladestours.com.
After my air boat adventure, I headed north on Hwy 27 toward Lake Okeechobee. On my way there I passed more swamp which eventually gave way to sugarcane fields as far as I could see in both directions. Eventually I did pass other farms including several palm tree farms where several varieties were being grown to be used later for landscaping. At the southeast corner of the lake, I passed through the town of Belle Glade. Although it is in Palm Beach county, it must be one of the poorest cities in the state. It was certainly the poorest place in Florida that I remember visiting. I took a wrong turn at one point and ended up going through downtown and then through a neighborhood that reminded me of some of the poverty I have seen in Honduras. You know things are bad when the main store downtown is the Goodwill. Apparently most of the economy comes from people working on the sugarcane fields. God bless them. In Pahokee, I drove up on the levy surrounding the lake and walked around the marina. Lake Okeechobee is the second largest lake in the US that is entirely within the US. It is so large that I could not see across it. As I continued on and drove around it, I did not see much more of the lake as it is surrounded by a high levy to prevent flooding during hurricanes. While it serves its purpose it has damaged the Everglades ecosystem south of it, which depended on it flooding. So I drove north with the levy on my left and passed numerous Sabal Palms (the state tree) and Live Oaks and fishing camps and felt like I was in the "real" Florida.
On the Monday after Christmas, my parents and I went to Lake Wales to see Bok Tower and its surrounding gardens, about an hour southwest of Orlando. It is situated on a hill known locally as iron mountain which rises 342 feet above sea level, making it the highest point in peninsular Florida and the second highest point in the state. The tower was built in the 1920s for Edward Bok and the gardens surrounding it were designed by Frank Law Olmstead, Jr. After Bok's death, it was given to the State of Florida. Although one cannot go up in the tower we did get to hear the 60 bell carillon give a concert and we enjoyed walking around the grounds taking in the views of the surrounding orange groves and enjoying the scenery of the ponds and native Florida trees. We also visited the Pinewood Estate property next door and enjoyed seeing the house professionally decorated for the holidays. The house was at onetime the winter home of C. Austin Buck, the one-time president of the Bethlehem Steel Corporation. Although the Christmas decorations were very pretty, we would have rather been there on an ordinary day when they give the regular tour which would have been more informative. You can read more about Bok Tower and the Pinewood Estate at their website: http://www.boktowergardens.org.
I have posted an album on Facebook with some of my pictures from my trip. You do not need to be a member of Facebook to view these photos. Just click on the following link:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=47835&id=1410030498&l=999cc50b56
After our visit to Bok Tower, we went to the nearby Spook Hill. I had always heard of Spook Hill, a hill where it appears that one can roll backwards up a hill. It is really just an optical illusion but it sure seemed real when we were there. Here is a video of my parents' car rolling backwards "up" the hill: